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Next, saw the tails down to the baselines with a fine-toothed dovetail saw, following your layout lines. Mark the pin socket waste areas, and saw the tails down to their baselines. Use these lines as references to draw a matching pattern of tails on the outside face of the back panel. Transfer the tail lines from the front panel to the back panel. Then clamp the back panel to the front panel with their inside faces against one another and so the ends and edges are even. Scribe baselines for the tails onto the back panel. Then clamp the back panel to it, and transfer the tail lines across the end grain so you can replicate the same tail pattern on the back panel.Įxtend the tail reference lines across the ends of the front panel with a square.
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Use a sliding bevel to draw the tails to shape with a sharp, fine-point or mechanical pencil. The bottoms of the pin sockets are 1/2" wide, and I set the angles of the tails to a 1:6 slope (about 10°). I laid mine out with eight pins, spaced 1-7/8" apart, on center. Set these scribe lines about 1/32" deeper than the thickness of the side panels (this way, the tails will protrude ever so slightly when the joints are assembled so you can trim or sand them perfectly flush). Then lay out the centerpoints of the pins, with a half pin on the top end of the chest only. Start by scribing a baseline for the tails all the way around both ends of the panel with a marking gauge. Mark the outside "show" faces on the panels, and label the corner joints to keep their orientation clear.ĭraw the angled tails on the ends of the front panel with a 10° bevel gauge. Start by preparing your stock, cutting it to final size and making sure the ends are square. But if you want to make narrower pins than your dovetail jig will allow or the freedom to space the dovetail pattern as you like, then the best option is to cut your dovetail joints by hand instead. You can cut dovetails with a router and dovetail jig, which is a perfectly acceptable option.
#Diy cnc dovetail free
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